Making my way from 485, north along South Blvd after my last, last day of work for the already humid as huevos summer, I was feeling more famished than enterprising and decided to eat at the first Latin American restaurant I saw. Taqueria Mexico was it.
At 2:45, I was one of about eight customers in the small, dimly-lit taqueria and was seated and salsa-ed immediately. The chips were a bit on the stale side (whatever), but Mexico really came through in the salsa department. The requisite mini-carafe of red was fresh, if a little mild, but it was served with a bowl of house hot sauce to liven things up. The real discovery, though, was the green salsa, which was simply out-of-control delicious, hair-on-haircut-day fresh, and with the perfect amount of kick for my mouth boots.
Though the menu was varied and extensive, including fourteen seafood and seven vegetarian dishes, I fell back on my old standby query when the waitress returned to the young man alone in his booth, shamelessly palming chips and verde into his face:
“What’s the best thing on the menu?”
(Looking flattered.) “Number one, carnitas.”
“I guess that’s why it’s number one.”
(Delayed courtesy laugh.) “Would you like flour or corn tortillas.”
“Decide for me.”
Perhaps the waitress has recently taken to reading Omnivore’s Dilemma when things get slow or maybe she guessed this gringo didn’t look authentic enough for corn. No matter because when I packed those flour tortillas full of fried pork tips, rice, beans, guac, etc. and poured on the green, new heights (depths?) of dankness were achieved...to the rejoicing of all. The pork carnitas were spot on: tender enough to fall off the bone if there had been one, but browned to a crisp on the outside. While constructing this tortilla full of the good, I couldn't help but revisit one of life's most profound questions. That is, when wrapping up Mexican fixings in a flour tortilla, at what point does the wrap cease to be a soft taco and become burrito? Must the end of the tortilla be folded snugly back on itself? Must the two sides of the tortilla join and stay joined? Is it not a burrito until baked or fried? Are peppers and and onions necessary to achieve fajita-dom? Such similar constitution, such a variance of titles!
The Score: I filled my belly for 10 bucks in about twice as many minutes. Big up yourself, Taquería Mexico, you do it right!
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